My DPhil project is structured around the travel diary written by Kha stag 'Dzam yag, a chief merchant (tshong dpon) who left his native land in Khams and embarked on a long journey through Central and Western Tibet, Nepal and India during 1944 and 1956. Despite defining himself as a gnas bskor ba (pilgrim), the author’s attitude conveys a different impression. His narrative keeps an accurate track of offerings and donations made to monasteries and lamas, as well as travel arrangements, taxes and dangerous situations faced along the way. From an academic point of view, 'Dzam yag’s account presents us with some of the pragmatic aspects of travelling between Tibet and India in the 20th century. The diary format itself is peculiar and distinguishes 'Dzam yag’s work from the traditional pilgrimage literature.